Some people prefer to begin preparing the ground for planting immediately after Winter – perhaps even during late winter. For those who use No-Dig gardening methods leaving the job a few extra weeks is a good thing.

We had some leftover cardboard boxes from recently moving into our current residence so I put these to use by placing over the old weeds and growth that had a full winter to develop. These weeds will become feed for the vegetable plants as they die under the cardboard. I placed semi-composted grass clippings over the cardboard to weigh the cardboard boxes down and provide another food source for the plants. I finish this by placing the sprinkler over this prepared bed to wet and soften the cardboard and settle everything in place before planting

A couple of old hay bales that had been waterlogged will be used later as mulch as the plants establish.

On one vegetable bed I prepared last weekend I cut holes in the cardboard to plant some Lettuce plants which had been started in the hothouse a couple of months ago. The holes need only be a couple of inches square to allow easy planting of the Seedlings. The smaller the hole the better to prevent weeds coming through.

Plastic 2 litre soft drink bottles cut in half make excellent protective surrounds while the plants are establishing. These can be removed when the plants have doubled or tripled in size or become too large for the cover. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough soft drink bottles so made some mini hothouses using bamboo stakes and clear plastic bread bags.

When using no dig garden methods I rarely feed newly planted seedlings. The semi-composted grass clippings when watered will leach nutrient into the plants and I believe this is ample feed until the plants establish. When feeding is required I use either liquid vermicast, sheep manure that has been soaked in water or a commercially available liquid Organic plant food. When watering leaf vegetables such as lettuce with liquid manures water the ground not the plant to avoid trapping liquid manure in the heart of the plant as it develops.

Next weekend I will begin preparing a bed in a similar No-Dig fashion to plant tomatoes which will be planted during the first week in November (traditionally) after frosts have finished.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Some Annual Plants ideally suited to Sheltered or Shady areas.

Cineraria (Cineraria species)

Cineraria is a popular genus of which there are dozens of species. The Cineraria is a hardy plant that enjoys both full sun and shady areas. The plant grows in a tree like fashion reaching a height of up to a metre, though I have seen some plants reaching heights greater than this. Cinerarias are happy to grow in poor soils and will do exceptionally well in soil rich in organic matter including Compost aged chook manure, and manures from cattle, horse and sheep.

Shrubby Pimpernel (Anagallis monellii)

Growing to a height of just 20cm (around 8 inches) and often found in hanging baskets, Shrubby Pimpernel is ideally suited to areas receiving a high level of sunlight during the day. The leaves on the plant appear in groups of 3 along branches. The flowers are small with 5 petals. The soil should be fertile and freely draining to avoid water logging. With its deep blue to purple flowers Shrubby Pimpernel grows well alongside yellow flowering plants such as creeping zinnia.

Swan River Daisy (Brachyscome)

An Australian native plant with mixed colours ranging from white, through pink, purple and mauve. Growing to a height of around 45cm (18 inches). The Swan River Daisy enjoys most aspects of Sun and Shade with a leaning towards Sunnier locations. It enjoys most slightly fertile soils. A good plant for growing using organic techniques.

Honeywort (Cerinthe major)

A native of the Mediterranean with Purple and Yellow tubular, almost bell shaped flowers. Its not a hardy plant when it comes to frosts. It will self sow in moderate climates where it will not be damaged by frosts. Growing to a height of 50 cm ( A little over one and a half feet) it is ideally suited to sheltered areas.

Annual Plants Facts

Most annual plants are grown for their attractive flowers of varying colours. Some annuals are grown for their decorative foliage which may be followed by flowers. Some decorative foliage plants are considered finished when they finally bolt to flower.

© Eric J. Smith

Annual Plants typically suited to poor soils include many grasses and plants found naturally in dry arid areas. These plants have developed a tolerance to poor conditions over the years making them ideal for home gardens with less than average soils.

A small selection of annuals suited to poor soil environments.

Californian Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

As the name suggests the Californian Poppy is a native of America. The bluey-green foliage compliment the variations of orange and yellow flowers. The Californian Poppy likes a free draining soil that is not too fertile and dryer than most. It flowers in Summer providing a profusion of flowers that brighten a flower bed during the peaks of summer. Averaging a height of around 30cm (one foot) in height and a similar spreading habit.

Quaking Grass (Briza maxima)

An annual grass that enjoys a hot environment, Quaking Grass (also known as Greater Quaking Grass) is botanically recognised as Briza maxima. It is not a plant recognised for its colour but it does look well in contrast with lower growing border annuals. Greater Quaking Grass will grow to a height of around 60cm and likes a position in full sun or slight shade. It is often used in flower arrangements when dried or with a mixed picking of freshly cut yard flowers. No need to fertilise heavily, this plant will survive most extremes of heat and poor soils without much effort.

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Generally reaching 15cm (6 inches) in height, Sweet Alyssum can be found growing in most soil types. Typical of plants from the Brassicaceae family, Sweet Alyssum has 4 petal flowers which provide a succession of free flowing seeds which can find their way into most garden beds, cracks in concrete, pots, and any place capable of a seed germinating. Some gardeners treat this annual as weed and try to avoid its use while others grow it profusely as low edges, or gap filling in formal annual beds. Though surviving well in poor soil, Sweet Alyssum does better with an organic feed after germination and a repeat feed after flowers have had their first show.

Annuals that grow well in poor soils are a good choice to begin developing an organic annual flower bed. These plants can help build up soil to a richer more fertile media. As the plants grow they will break up the surface layer of soil and the decaying old plants will add to the soils organic matter providing benefit over time.

© Eric J. Smith

Annuals grown in pots and containers are often more prolific in foliage and flowers due to the small environment the plants have to trap an use the organic feed that is placed on them. Liquid mixes of vermicast, traditional compost and sheep manure are good choices for an organic feed for annuals grown in pots.

Annuals ideally suited to growing in pots include,

Livingstone Daisy (Dorotheanthus bellidiformis)

The Livingstone daisy grows well in most conditions and is exceptionally suited to growing in pots. A low growing plant reaching a height of around 15cm (6 inches) that is planted especially for its long runs of cream, pink or orange flowers. The Livingstone Daisy should placed where it can receive ample full sunlight to encourage the flowers to open.

Nemesia (Nemesia strumosa)

The flowers of the Nemesia range in colour from Yellow through Orange to Red and from red through Pink to White. Bicolours of White and Blue are also available. Nemesia is a Summer flowering plant and grows well with Lobelia in contrasting colours.

Wool Flower (Celosia argentea)

The wool flower enjoys an organic, moist and fertile environment to encourage vibrant colours of the flowers which include Purple, Red, Orange and Yellow. The flowers of the Wool Flower contrast brilliantly with the deep green or bronzed purple foliage. The plant reaches a height and width of around 30cm (12 inches if you prefer).

Phlox (Phlox drummondii)

A Tender Summer Flowering annual that enjoys a fertile environment in a free draining potting media. Phlox reaches a height of 30 cm (12 inches) and comes in a range of colours including red, pink, purple and deep red. A deep purple is also common. Phlox looks brilliant when its flowers are in succession but the flowering period can be short lived. Pots and Containers are a good option for growing Phlox.

The type of Pot you grow annuals in is not necessarily important but consideration should be given to the frequency of watering if using terracotta (clay) or timber pots as these are porous and lose a considerable amount of water. Glazed pots are ideal as are plastic tubs and pots.

© Eric J. Smith

Many good florists have selections of Organically grown cut flowers which will include many varieties of annual flowers.

A small selection of annual plants suitable for cut flower displays:

Asters (Callistephus species)

One of the most popular annual flowers used for cut flower displays. Flower colours include White, Red, Pink, Purple and Cream. The plant reaches a height of around 30cm when grown in ideal conditions. Callistephus species has a preference for soil that is free draining and organically fertile.

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)

Sweet Williams are typically Biennial but there are Annual varieties. Growing to a height of around 2 feet (60cm). A summer flowering plant, the Annual Sweet William is particularly suited to cut flower displays with its red, pink and white flowers. Seeds can be sown in Autumn or Spring with Earlier plantings growing taller and flowering later and longer.

Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia hirta)

These plants are native to North America and enjoy an Organically fertile and moist soil. The height of these plants can vary from 6 inches to 24 inches in height (15 – 60cm). Rudbeckia are Perennial plants which are treated like annuals in most garden situations. The flowers are traditionally yellow though variations are common. Autumn and Summer are the seasons of interest for the Rudbeckia.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Sunflowers are heavy feeders requiring a fertile, free draining soil and a full sun aspect. Sunflowers grow up to 2 metres in height with flowers often up to 12 inches across. Varieties suitable for use as cut flowers are pollen free. When this variety was first introduced to me it was referenced as Pom-Pom Yellow but I have not seen it known as this in any text. Colours vary from yellow also through orange to deep red (maroon) and brown.

Some tips to using annuals for cut flower displays:

• Fresh cut flowers have an obvious short life span, annual flowers exceptionally so.
• Maintaining adequate water after picking is important to maximise the life of the flower.
• Some annual flowers dehydrate well for use in dry flower arrangements.
• Straight stemmed flowers are usually best in flower arrangements.
• Flowers for cut flower displays should be picked when the flowers are at their desired size. Some flowers will be fully open while others will be partially closed. Roses, though not an annual are a good example of flowers that are at their best when still in bud form.

© Eric J. Smith

When considering what plants to use for gap filling there are a few things to first consider. You will want to choose plants that are similar to the plants currently established. These established plants could be other annuals, perennials, shrubs or trees. Look for flowers and foliage that relate to those already established. Potted colour is a good way to buy an immediate colour effect. Buds and flowers have already developed and should last for a complete season of flowering. The life of which depends on the plant itself.

Some annual plants suitable for gap filling bare spots in borders and beds:

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Borage is a hardy annual herb suitable for any soil type. It grows well in full sun or shade and flowers in Summer and Autumn in most environments. The 5 petal star shaped flowers are born on branches with fine hairy leaves. Borage grows easily and free seeds to provide a succession of on going colour. Borage can be found growing up to 1 metre in height.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Zinnias are a popular annual grown in many countries around the world. They prefer a fertile soil that provides ample water but drains easily to prevent boggy growing conditions. The flowers of Zinnia come in a wide range of colours and patterns which include – pink, yellow, mauve, orange, white, red, maroon and some colours and shades of green. Zinnia has a broad range of height varieties from 20cm to over a Metre.

Annual Mallow (Malope trifida)

The pink, mauve, purple and white flowers of the annual Mallow add a splash of colour to any garden. This summer flowering annual prefers a full sun aspect in a well draining fertile soil. The average height of Annual Mallow is 50cm but will also grow upwards of 75cm.

You will have several choices when growing annuals as gap filling plants. Seed can be sown at an appropriate time either directly in the final growing position or in punnets under cover. Seedlings can be bought or advanced plants commonly known as potted colour can be bought either flowering or ready to flower. The choice will depend on the age of the existing plants and whether or not you want an immediate effect or plants to grow along with the existing ones.

Before planting prepare the soil with plenty of compost and manure to give an immediate feed source as the plants develop.

© Eric J. Smith

Traditional Agriculture and gardening methods use chemical approaches to feed a plant with often-synthetic versions of a natural substance to support the growth of the plant, not the growth of the soil as a living organism. The paddocks or fields in traditional agriculture are generally sprayed with a herbicide to remove any weeds and also sprayed with Pesticides to remove most other living beneficial organisms within the soil. Seeds or seedlings are then planted by drilling without any breaking of the soil surface. Repeated movement by tractors and harvesting machines also compact the soil.

These methods are used with the idea that soil erosion is being avoided which is a good thing. But unfortunately the down side is the soil is being effected in other ways through the elimination of beneficial soil bacteria, compacting of the soil, toxic herbicide and pesticide applications.

Soil works best when it is organic, loose, free draining and rich in micro organisms, earth worms and beneficial bacteria. It needs repeated applications of decaying matter, manures and similar things to enhance the quality of the growing medium.

Larger scale farms and gardens on sloping banks can benefit from the building of swales to capture and divert water as well as protect against soil erosion. Some inspiring farmers are now using hay and straw on sloping sites to cover soil and to build barriers to prevent soil erosion. These types of methods are far more sustainable than other traditional uses.

What we do in a small home garden can be duplicated on a larger scale by utilising the waste vegetation left after harvesting a crop and diverting it into compost or green manure depending on the type of material left after harvesting.

Combining Cropping and Grazing on the same property is a great way of eliminating weed growth  by strip grazing cropping paddocks before tilling or planting. To reduce the likelihood of transferring weed seeds from one area to another, farm animals should be regularly rotated between paddocks to prevent weed plants from developing seeds. Most animals will eat annual and perennial weeds but of the few they won’t eat like harder perennial weeds and rushes, burning is a good option of eliminating these from a paddock.

With a little outside the box thinking and a little bit of work we can easily build a soil up using organic gardening and farming practices while eliminating the need for chemical additives and encouraging soil micro organisms, beneficial bacteria and earth worms.

Commercial meat rabbit farming operations have become popular over the years and the manure is often sold as a sideline income source.

Where to find a supplier of rabbit manure:

You may find a rabbit breeder or farmer in your area that supplies rabbit manure or local nurseries or garden centres may stock the manure.

Farmers Markets may also be a good place to find the manure.

Keeping rabbits yourself may be an option to maintain a sufficient supply of manure for your vegetable garden. Cages should be designed so they are raised off the ground with wire floors to allow the manure to fall through for easy collection.

Rabbits can also be placed on the ground on top of your finished veggie beds. If their feed is supplemented with commercial pellets or food scraps they can remain in one spot for a week or more until they have eaten a section of ground bare. It is important to keep regular water and feed up to them.

5 ways to use rabbit poo around your home garden

• Rabbit poo is excellent dug directly into a garden prior to planting. Pre-dig your veggie patches or use a tiller or rotary hoe. Cast rabbit manure over the garden bed. 2 – 4 inches (50 – 100cm) is an ideal depth. Use a fork to roughly dig the manure into the soil.
• The manure can be added directly at the base of individual plants and watered in. This allows nutrients to slowly leach around the root ball of plants.
• Mixing a third of a bucket of rabbit manure with two thirds of a bucket of water can make a liquid fertilizer. Allow soaking overnight. Strain the liquid off into another bucket. Add 2or 3 cups of this concentrated liquid to a 10 litre watering can and water plants liberally. The solid matter left after collecting the liquid can be added to a compost heap or around trees or shrubs.
• Rabbit manure makes an ideal bedding material for worm farms. It is also an ideal supplemental feed or bulk feed if you will not be looking after them for some time.
• The manure can be added to traditional compost heaps. It is especially ideal where materials such as seaweed, that leach nitrogen from the heap are included.

Many Organic gardeners use seaweed regularly.

Seaweed can take a long time to breakdown especially when added as mulch. The longer it takes to breakdown the more nitrogen it is depleting from the soil.

5 ways you can beat the salt and use seaweed in your home organic garden:

• Store seaweed in a wire cage with no bottom. Leave the cage in an area that will not be effected by high salt levels. Let the natural elements wash and blow the salt from the seaweed and give it a regular wash through with fresh water.

• Shred seaweed and mix with equal amounts of fresh green lawn clippings. Use this mixture at a rate of no more than a third of total mix, in compost that includes chicken manure and hay or straw.

• Once the seaweed is well weathered and washed (a month during a wet winter would be sufficient) it can be dug into garden beds in preparation for spring planting. Using a trench composting method is ideal. Shredding is not necessary when digging into the garden.

• Chooks love to scratch around in seaweed. Placing seaweed on the ground and let the chooks scratch it over the winter months. This is an excellent way of eliminating weeds and adding extra nitrogen to the soil that the seaweed will deplete.

• Despite the high levels of sodium, seaweed is naturally high in other minerals that are beneficial to the soil and plants.

Seaweed used in the garden is not the same as the kelp often associated with seaweed/s. The seaweed used in the garden is more like a sea grass.

Something for you to try: I have had a lot of success growing organic potatoes under a mixture of seaweed and old grass hay. Lay potato tubers on top of the ground place loose hay around 12 inches thick. Add seaweed over the hay to another 12 inches thick. The seaweed will help prevent light from getting in to the tubers preventing them from going green. The seaweed will begin to decay as the potatoes grow. This hay and seaweed mix can be added to the compost heap or used as a mulch around beetroot, spinach, silverbeet or other beet crops. It will gradually break down and add more nutrients to the soil.

If you have read my articles before you may know I am not in favour of adding household scraps to a compost heap. Household scraps are the main reason a Compost heap smells and attracts vermon.

Household scraps do have a place in the garden however. I usually put these in my worm farm.

If you do not have a worm farm there is still several ways you can use house scraps in the garden.

In this Article we will look at Trench composting.

This is an excellent way to build up your Vegetable gardens fertility and get rid of your house scraps at the same time.

4 simple steps to start a Trench compost.

Start by digging a row in your vegetable garden. Now dig another row placing the soil on top of the first row so you create a trench. This trench will become your Compost heap. During the next week put your household scraps in this trench.

After a weeks worth of scraps have been added to the trench, dig another trench by putting the soil from the row you are digging on top of the waste you placed in the previous trench.

Step 3 requires repeating step 2 until you have your bed completely dug.

Once you have completed all steps above you will be left with a row of household waste and nothing to dig on top of it because you have come to the end of the bed. There are a couple of options for completing this step…

• Option 1: I prefer to use this option. Simply use some green/brown compost and fill the hole or empty your grass catcher in the hole until its full.

• Option 2: You can rake the raised garden you have created until the soil fills the hole.

There are several variations to this method of composting.

I have read articles suggesting a variation to include digging between widely spaced rows of vegetables. This can damage the root system of plants if dug too close. I do use this variation sometimes but I don’t recommend it to new gardeners.

Another variation includes simply digging a hole emptying a bucket full of scraps and fill the hole in. This is ideal around the base of trees and shrubs. It’s a good idea to place a marker where you have placed each bucket full to ensure you don’t dig in the same location for a few months.