Some people prefer to begin preparing the ground for planting immediately after Winter – perhaps even during late winter. For those who use No-Dig gardening methods leaving the job a few extra weeks is a good thing.

We had some leftover cardboard boxes from recently moving into our current residence so I put these to use by placing over the old weeds and growth that had a full winter to develop. These weeds will become feed for the vegetable plants as they die under the cardboard. I placed semi-composted grass clippings over the cardboard to weigh the cardboard boxes down and provide another food source for the plants. I finish this by placing the sprinkler over this prepared bed to wet and soften the cardboard and settle everything in place before planting

A couple of old hay bales that had been waterlogged will be used later as mulch as the plants establish.

On one vegetable bed I prepared last weekend I cut holes in the cardboard to plant some Lettuce plants which had been started in the hothouse a couple of months ago. The holes need only be a couple of inches square to allow easy planting of the Seedlings. The smaller the hole the better to prevent weeds coming through.

Plastic 2 litre soft drink bottles cut in half make excellent protective surrounds while the plants are establishing. These can be removed when the plants have doubled or tripled in size or become too large for the cover. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough soft drink bottles so made some mini hothouses using bamboo stakes and clear plastic bread bags.

When using no dig garden methods I rarely feed newly planted seedlings. The semi-composted grass clippings when watered will leach nutrient into the plants and I believe this is ample feed until the plants establish. When feeding is required I use either liquid vermicast, sheep manure that has been soaked in water or a commercially available liquid Organic plant food. When watering leaf vegetables such as lettuce with liquid manures water the ground not the plant to avoid trapping liquid manure in the heart of the plant as it develops.

Next weekend I will begin preparing a bed in a similar No-Dig fashion to plant tomatoes which will be planted during the first week in November (traditionally) after frosts have finished.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

A short list of suitable foliar sprays is below. This list is in no way complete but is a short list of the items I have used over the years and found to work the best.

Manure

Most manures (with the exception of fresh poultry manure) can be soaked in water to make a foliar spray. These concentrated manure emulsions need to be diluted before applying with either a watering can or spraying unit.

Seaweed

Fresh seaweed collected from the beach can make an excellent foliar spray. Seaweed should be rinsed and partially composted prior to soaking in water. Seaweed should be soaked for several weeks to ensure a quality liquid concentrate which can then be diluted before application with a watering can or sprayer.

Compost

Compost made from household scraps will make an excellent foliar spray when soaked in water. Compost has already began to breakdown which means it will not need soaking for more than 24 hours before diluting and applying with a watering can. Spray units could also be used but ensure the mixture has been well strained to remove any contaminants which may block the spray nozzle of the applicator.

Plant Teas

Plant teas can range from Old weeds, Lawn clippings, Pea straw and basically anything green which has been soaked and fermented in water. Some specific plants when soaked make excellent pest control sprays as well as a source of nutrient.

Urine

Urine has long been known for its benefit to Lemons and other Citrus trees. Urine is a high source of ammonia which makes it an ideal foliar spray. Urine should be first left to stand for a week or so before using on plants. I wouldn’t use it it for leafy or hearting vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage or Brussels sprouts, though this is a personal choice and there is no specific reason not to.

Vermicast

Vermicast or worm castings can be soaked in water and used as a general foliar spray, fertiliser and plant or soil conditioner.

Commercially available Liquid Fertilisers

Brand names differ from country to country but several liquid fertilisers and foliar sprays are available. In Australia brand names such as Seasol and Charlie Carp are common and are an excellent choice for a natural plant and soil conditioner. These preparations should be mixed according to the specifications on the product packaging and applied according to the directions.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

The size of your chicken tractor will ultimately depend on the size of your yard and the number of chickens you have. I have seen largest chicken tractors that required a tractor to pull around a paddock down to a small chicken tractor that could hold around 4 to 6 chickens and was ideal for an average size suburban back yard.

I have seen several chicken tractor domes made for use in association with mandala gardens used in Permaculture and by Organic & Natural Farmers and Gardeners. These domes are rotated around a mandala design usually every 2 weeks after which vegetables are planted directly in the soil the chickens have nicely prepared. No weed spraying, digging or additional ground preparation required. There are several websites available with information on these.

Domes have been traditionally made with bamboo, thin lengths of milled timber or thin straight branches. The most common and lightest material used these days is three quarter inch PVC or one inch Poly pipe which can be connected with various joiners available. Wire is then fitted over these dome frames to keep the chickens enclosed. Protective coverings such as old tarps or similar can be used to protect the chickens from the elements of heat during the day and rain or other harsh weather.

Other variations of chicken tractors can be made using timber with wire covering. Sheet wire often referred to as Weld mesh can also be used with or without a steel or timber frame. Commercially available units built like this are available and can be seen in many good organic gardening magazines or online.

Wheels on chicken tractors is a must have (except perhaps for chicken domes). Wheels can be a permanent fixture or designed to attach when the unit needs to be moved. The type of wheels you use will depend on the size of your chicken tractor. Simple wheels like those on your push lawn mower, to wheels used on wheel barrows are ideal. Commercially available chicken tractors are likely to come with pre-attached or are easy to attach yourself.

When considering using a chicken tractor to keep your vegetable garden clean, organic and naturally fertilised, look at the size of your yard and consider your options based on the circumstances you have to work with.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Annual Plants typically suited to poor soils include many grasses and plants found naturally in dry arid areas. These plants have developed a tolerance to poor conditions over the years making them ideal for home gardens with less than average soils.

A small selection of annuals suited to poor soil environments.

Californian Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

As the name suggests the Californian Poppy is a native of America. The bluey-green foliage compliment the variations of orange and yellow flowers. The Californian Poppy likes a free draining soil that is not too fertile and dryer than most. It flowers in Summer providing a profusion of flowers that brighten a flower bed during the peaks of summer. Averaging a height of around 30cm (one foot) in height and a similar spreading habit.

Quaking Grass (Briza maxima)

An annual grass that enjoys a hot environment, Quaking Grass (also known as Greater Quaking Grass) is botanically recognised as Briza maxima. It is not a plant recognised for its colour but it does look well in contrast with lower growing border annuals. Greater Quaking Grass will grow to a height of around 60cm and likes a position in full sun or slight shade. It is often used in flower arrangements when dried or with a mixed picking of freshly cut yard flowers. No need to fertilise heavily, this plant will survive most extremes of heat and poor soils without much effort.

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Generally reaching 15cm (6 inches) in height, Sweet Alyssum can be found growing in most soil types. Typical of plants from the Brassicaceae family, Sweet Alyssum has 4 petal flowers which provide a succession of free flowing seeds which can find their way into most garden beds, cracks in concrete, pots, and any place capable of a seed germinating. Some gardeners treat this annual as weed and try to avoid its use while others grow it profusely as low edges, or gap filling in formal annual beds. Though surviving well in poor soil, Sweet Alyssum does better with an organic feed after germination and a repeat feed after flowers have had their first show.

Annuals that grow well in poor soils are a good choice to begin developing an organic annual flower bed. These plants can help build up soil to a richer more fertile media. As the plants grow they will break up the surface layer of soil and the decaying old plants will add to the soils organic matter providing benefit over time.

© Eric J. Smith

Annuals grown in pots and containers are often more prolific in foliage and flowers due to the small environment the plants have to trap an use the organic feed that is placed on them. Liquid mixes of vermicast, traditional compost and sheep manure are good choices for an organic feed for annuals grown in pots.

Annuals ideally suited to growing in pots include,

Livingstone Daisy (Dorotheanthus bellidiformis)

The Livingstone daisy grows well in most conditions and is exceptionally suited to growing in pots. A low growing plant reaching a height of around 15cm (6 inches) that is planted especially for its long runs of cream, pink or orange flowers. The Livingstone Daisy should placed where it can receive ample full sunlight to encourage the flowers to open.

Nemesia (Nemesia strumosa)

The flowers of the Nemesia range in colour from Yellow through Orange to Red and from red through Pink to White. Bicolours of White and Blue are also available. Nemesia is a Summer flowering plant and grows well with Lobelia in contrasting colours.

Wool Flower (Celosia argentea)

The wool flower enjoys an organic, moist and fertile environment to encourage vibrant colours of the flowers which include Purple, Red, Orange and Yellow. The flowers of the Wool Flower contrast brilliantly with the deep green or bronzed purple foliage. The plant reaches a height and width of around 30cm (12 inches if you prefer).

Phlox (Phlox drummondii)

A Tender Summer Flowering annual that enjoys a fertile environment in a free draining potting media. Phlox reaches a height of 30 cm (12 inches) and comes in a range of colours including red, pink, purple and deep red. A deep purple is also common. Phlox looks brilliant when its flowers are in succession but the flowering period can be short lived. Pots and Containers are a good option for growing Phlox.

The type of Pot you grow annuals in is not necessarily important but consideration should be given to the frequency of watering if using terracotta (clay) or timber pots as these are porous and lose a considerable amount of water. Glazed pots are ideal as are plastic tubs and pots.

© Eric J. Smith

Many good florists have selections of Organically grown cut flowers which will include many varieties of annual flowers.

A small selection of annual plants suitable for cut flower displays:

Asters (Callistephus species)

One of the most popular annual flowers used for cut flower displays. Flower colours include White, Red, Pink, Purple and Cream. The plant reaches a height of around 30cm when grown in ideal conditions. Callistephus species has a preference for soil that is free draining and organically fertile.

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)

Sweet Williams are typically Biennial but there are Annual varieties. Growing to a height of around 2 feet (60cm). A summer flowering plant, the Annual Sweet William is particularly suited to cut flower displays with its red, pink and white flowers. Seeds can be sown in Autumn or Spring with Earlier plantings growing taller and flowering later and longer.

Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia hirta)

These plants are native to North America and enjoy an Organically fertile and moist soil. The height of these plants can vary from 6 inches to 24 inches in height (15 – 60cm). Rudbeckia are Perennial plants which are treated like annuals in most garden situations. The flowers are traditionally yellow though variations are common. Autumn and Summer are the seasons of interest for the Rudbeckia.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Sunflowers are heavy feeders requiring a fertile, free draining soil and a full sun aspect. Sunflowers grow up to 2 metres in height with flowers often up to 12 inches across. Varieties suitable for use as cut flowers are pollen free. When this variety was first introduced to me it was referenced as Pom-Pom Yellow but I have not seen it known as this in any text. Colours vary from yellow also through orange to deep red (maroon) and brown.

Some tips to using annuals for cut flower displays:

• Fresh cut flowers have an obvious short life span, annual flowers exceptionally so.
• Maintaining adequate water after picking is important to maximise the life of the flower.
• Some annual flowers dehydrate well for use in dry flower arrangements.
• Straight stemmed flowers are usually best in flower arrangements.
• Flowers for cut flower displays should be picked when the flowers are at their desired size. Some flowers will be fully open while others will be partially closed. Roses, though not an annual are a good example of flowers that are at their best when still in bud form.

© Eric J. Smith

When considering what plants to use for gap filling there are a few things to first consider. You will want to choose plants that are similar to the plants currently established. These established plants could be other annuals, perennials, shrubs or trees. Look for flowers and foliage that relate to those already established. Potted colour is a good way to buy an immediate colour effect. Buds and flowers have already developed and should last for a complete season of flowering. The life of which depends on the plant itself.

Some annual plants suitable for gap filling bare spots in borders and beds:

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Borage is a hardy annual herb suitable for any soil type. It grows well in full sun or shade and flowers in Summer and Autumn in most environments. The 5 petal star shaped flowers are born on branches with fine hairy leaves. Borage grows easily and free seeds to provide a succession of on going colour. Borage can be found growing up to 1 metre in height.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Zinnias are a popular annual grown in many countries around the world. They prefer a fertile soil that provides ample water but drains easily to prevent boggy growing conditions. The flowers of Zinnia come in a wide range of colours and patterns which include – pink, yellow, mauve, orange, white, red, maroon and some colours and shades of green. Zinnia has a broad range of height varieties from 20cm to over a Metre.

Annual Mallow (Malope trifida)

The pink, mauve, purple and white flowers of the annual Mallow add a splash of colour to any garden. This summer flowering annual prefers a full sun aspect in a well draining fertile soil. The average height of Annual Mallow is 50cm but will also grow upwards of 75cm.

You will have several choices when growing annuals as gap filling plants. Seed can be sown at an appropriate time either directly in the final growing position or in punnets under cover. Seedlings can be bought or advanced plants commonly known as potted colour can be bought either flowering or ready to flower. The choice will depend on the age of the existing plants and whether or not you want an immediate effect or plants to grow along with the existing ones.

Before planting prepare the soil with plenty of compost and manure to give an immediate feed source as the plants develop.

© Eric J. Smith

Traditional Agriculture and gardening methods use chemical approaches to feed a plant with often-synthetic versions of a natural substance to support the growth of the plant, not the growth of the soil as a living organism. The paddocks or fields in traditional agriculture are generally sprayed with a herbicide to remove any weeds and also sprayed with Pesticides to remove most other living beneficial organisms within the soil. Seeds or seedlings are then planted by drilling without any breaking of the soil surface. Repeated movement by tractors and harvesting machines also compact the soil.

These methods are used with the idea that soil erosion is being avoided which is a good thing. But unfortunately the down side is the soil is being effected in other ways through the elimination of beneficial soil bacteria, compacting of the soil, toxic herbicide and pesticide applications.

Soil works best when it is organic, loose, free draining and rich in micro organisms, earth worms and beneficial bacteria. It needs repeated applications of decaying matter, manures and similar things to enhance the quality of the growing medium.

Larger scale farms and gardens on sloping banks can benefit from the building of swales to capture and divert water as well as protect against soil erosion. Some inspiring farmers are now using hay and straw on sloping sites to cover soil and to build barriers to prevent soil erosion. These types of methods are far more sustainable than other traditional uses.

What we do in a small home garden can be duplicated on a larger scale by utilising the waste vegetation left after harvesting a crop and diverting it into compost or green manure depending on the type of material left after harvesting.

Combining Cropping and Grazing on the same property is a great way of eliminating weed growth  by strip grazing cropping paddocks before tilling or planting. To reduce the likelihood of transferring weed seeds from one area to another, farm animals should be regularly rotated between paddocks to prevent weed plants from developing seeds. Most animals will eat annual and perennial weeds but of the few they won’t eat like harder perennial weeds and rushes, burning is a good option of eliminating these from a paddock.

With a little outside the box thinking and a little bit of work we can easily build a soil up using organic gardening and farming practices while eliminating the need for chemical additives and encouraging soil micro organisms, beneficial bacteria and earth worms.

Commercial meat rabbit farming operations have become popular over the years and the manure is often sold as a sideline income source.

Where to find a supplier of rabbit manure:

You may find a rabbit breeder or farmer in your area that supplies rabbit manure or local nurseries or garden centres may stock the manure.

Farmers Markets may also be a good place to find the manure.

Keeping rabbits yourself may be an option to maintain a sufficient supply of manure for your vegetable garden. Cages should be designed so they are raised off the ground with wire floors to allow the manure to fall through for easy collection.

Rabbits can also be placed on the ground on top of your finished veggie beds. If their feed is supplemented with commercial pellets or food scraps they can remain in one spot for a week or more until they have eaten a section of ground bare. It is important to keep regular water and feed up to them.

5 ways to use rabbit poo around your home garden

• Rabbit poo is excellent dug directly into a garden prior to planting. Pre-dig your veggie patches or use a tiller or rotary hoe. Cast rabbit manure over the garden bed. 2 – 4 inches (50 – 100cm) is an ideal depth. Use a fork to roughly dig the manure into the soil.
• The manure can be added directly at the base of individual plants and watered in. This allows nutrients to slowly leach around the root ball of plants.
• Mixing a third of a bucket of rabbit manure with two thirds of a bucket of water can make a liquid fertilizer. Allow soaking overnight. Strain the liquid off into another bucket. Add 2or 3 cups of this concentrated liquid to a 10 litre watering can and water plants liberally. The solid matter left after collecting the liquid can be added to a compost heap or around trees or shrubs.
• Rabbit manure makes an ideal bedding material for worm farms. It is also an ideal supplemental feed or bulk feed if you will not be looking after them for some time.
• The manure can be added to traditional compost heaps. It is especially ideal where materials such as seaweed, that leach nitrogen from the heap are included.

In his book The Green Gardener : Sustainable Gardening in Your Own Backyard Josh Byrne explains… “Green Manures are annual plant crops that are grown specifically to improve the soil. Leguminous species such as vetch, peas and beans are commonly used because they naturally take nitrogen from the air and fix it to their roots in tiny nodules with the help of beneficial bacteria. Green manure crops are usually sown in vegetable beds during winter, and they should be dug into soil just before they go to flower in early spring, when they contain the maximum amount of nitrogen. The crop will break down very quickly and the bed can be planted after two or 3 weeks.”