A short list of suitable foliar sprays is below. This list is in no way complete but is a short list of the items I have used over the years and found to work the best.

Manure

Most manures (with the exception of fresh poultry manure) can be soaked in water to make a foliar spray. These concentrated manure emulsions need to be diluted before applying with either a watering can or spraying unit.

Seaweed

Fresh seaweed collected from the beach can make an excellent foliar spray. Seaweed should be rinsed and partially composted prior to soaking in water. Seaweed should be soaked for several weeks to ensure a quality liquid concentrate which can then be diluted before application with a watering can or sprayer.

Compost

Compost made from household scraps will make an excellent foliar spray when soaked in water. Compost has already began to breakdown which means it will not need soaking for more than 24 hours before diluting and applying with a watering can. Spray units could also be used but ensure the mixture has been well strained to remove any contaminants which may block the spray nozzle of the applicator.

Plant Teas

Plant teas can range from Old weeds, Lawn clippings, Pea straw and basically anything green which has been soaked and fermented in water. Some specific plants when soaked make excellent pest control sprays as well as a source of nutrient.

Urine

Urine has long been known for its benefit to Lemons and other Citrus trees. Urine is a high source of ammonia which makes it an ideal foliar spray. Urine should be first left to stand for a week or so before using on plants. I wouldn’t use it it for leafy or hearting vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage or Brussels sprouts, though this is a personal choice and there is no specific reason not to.

Vermicast

Vermicast or worm castings can be soaked in water and used as a general foliar spray, fertiliser and plant or soil conditioner.

Commercially available Liquid Fertilisers

Brand names differ from country to country but several liquid fertilisers and foliar sprays are available. In Australia brand names such as Seasol and Charlie Carp are common and are an excellent choice for a natural plant and soil conditioner. These preparations should be mixed according to the specifications on the product packaging and applied according to the directions.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Some years ago when I was first trialing grass hay in the compost, I placed an ad in the wanted to buy section of the local paper. The ad simply read “Wanted – Grass Hay – The older and wetter the better – Suitable for Garden mulch and composting” It was a simple ad so I was surprised by the number of phone calls I got.

When the hay is wet and old keeping it in a bale is no easy task but I managed to get several bales home. I kept a couple of bales for adding to compost between layers of lawn clippings and I used the rest of the bales on my pre existing vegetable garden The Hay was quiet old and half rotten so it didn’t take long to break down. The following season there was sufficient rotten hay to plant several rows of tomatoes in without breaking the soil surface. These tomatoes grew almost to my own height of over 5ft 6inches.

I often use grass hay now for building up soils and adding to garden beds over winter to prevent weed growth. Hay breaks away easily into bricks and packs tightly stopping weeds from growing through.

Some tips for using rotten grass hay in and around the garden.

• I grow potatoes directly under grass hay and plant lettuces in the same spot the following season. The hay has all but completely broken down by the time the lettuces are planted. The following season Turn the soil deeply and plant carrots. The previous 2 years have softened the soil making it easy to dig and giving the carrots a soft soil to develop in.

• I always add pre or partly rotten hay into the compost heap in between layers of fresh green lawn clippings. The lawn clippings build up the heat and the bacteria has already started working in the hay. It doesn’t take long before the compost is ready to use.

• Hay that has previously rotted on a vegetable garden can be raked off if required and used as mulch around roses or in annual flowerbeds.

• Seeds in grass hay are rarely a major issue as they usually germinate on top of the ground or in the hay itself as it decays. Any green can be easily pulled off or left to grow and dug in before they flower. Any twitch or rhizome grass species should be easily identified and removed by hand. Before it gets out of control.

Many Organic gardeners use seaweed regularly.

Seaweed can take a long time to breakdown especially when added as mulch. The longer it takes to breakdown the more nitrogen it is depleting from the soil.

5 ways you can beat the salt and use seaweed in your home organic garden:

• Store seaweed in a wire cage with no bottom. Leave the cage in an area that will not be effected by high salt levels. Let the natural elements wash and blow the salt from the seaweed and give it a regular wash through with fresh water.

• Shred seaweed and mix with equal amounts of fresh green lawn clippings. Use this mixture at a rate of no more than a third of total mix, in compost that includes chicken manure and hay or straw.

• Once the seaweed is well weathered and washed (a month during a wet winter would be sufficient) it can be dug into garden beds in preparation for spring planting. Using a trench composting method is ideal. Shredding is not necessary when digging into the garden.

• Chooks love to scratch around in seaweed. Placing seaweed on the ground and let the chooks scratch it over the winter months. This is an excellent way of eliminating weeds and adding extra nitrogen to the soil that the seaweed will deplete.

• Despite the high levels of sodium, seaweed is naturally high in other minerals that are beneficial to the soil and plants.

Seaweed used in the garden is not the same as the kelp often associated with seaweed/s. The seaweed used in the garden is more like a sea grass.

Something for you to try: I have had a lot of success growing organic potatoes under a mixture of seaweed and old grass hay. Lay potato tubers on top of the ground place loose hay around 12 inches thick. Add seaweed over the hay to another 12 inches thick. The seaweed will help prevent light from getting in to the tubers preventing them from going green. The seaweed will begin to decay as the potatoes grow. This hay and seaweed mix can be added to the compost heap or used as a mulch around beetroot, spinach, silverbeet or other beet crops. It will gradually break down and add more nutrients to the soil.

Well, to be perfectly honest, you don’t need a bin, cage or any structure to make compost. The ideal compost would be made in the open air. Perhaps in furrows or in long rows. Covers can be used if desired.

Compost bins come in all shapes and sizes. There are commercially available Timber and plastic varieties. Some plastic bins are designed as tumblers to make turning easier. Wooden bins can be made from treated pine (not recommended) or Cedar or Cypress species.

Home made compost bins can be constructed with old wooden pallets, roofing iron or old fence palings. I use some old 200L drums I purchased from a neighbour. I use these as we are now in a residential area with a small backyard. It’s easier to keep the compost together with the drums.

There is really no reason to require the use of a Bin for making compost. It comes down to personal choice, your setting or other circumstances.

Commercially compost heaps can be seen in Windrows often hundreds of metres long. Trucks back up to a pile and empties its load of organic waste and this process continues. The compost at one end is in the making while new organic matter is being added to the opposite end.

In a domestic residential setting however, this would require thinking on a much smaller scale. If using a small open air windrow method you may require some form of edging or catchment to keep the compost tidy and in its place.

Compost doesn’t always require turning but if it did, using a windrow or open air composting method will make it easier to turn if and when required.

Trench composting is another method of composting without the need for a bin. Trench composting is probably the easiest method of all. This method involves digging rows and composting in the hole.

I usually look to nature to see how she handles herself with anything before I do it. I then aim to duplicate that natural environment in a man made micro scale. Nature makes her own compost by falling leaves, dead plants and animals, insects, decaying plants and weeds and animal manure. Nature does not use a compost bin when building up her forest floors. If we can duplicate that in our backyard, we have achieved something.

A Compost bin looks good and enables it to fit and be created in a specific area. Its purpose is nothing more than cosmetic.

This article is not meant to be exhaustive. It is however, designed to provide you with options when it comes to making your compost heap.

In a small or domestic backyard it is not impossible to have more compost than you can use. Fortunately there are many more uses for compost than just adding it to your veggie patch.

Some of the ways I use Compost around the home include:

1. Foliar Spray – Compost can be soaked in a bucket of water and the liquid used as a foliar spray for vegetables, annual flowers and shrubs. The best time to spray is in the evening when showers are forecast. This will ensure no residue dries on the leaves of the plants. If showers are not likely, water the plants an hour or so after applying the liquid compost. Depending on the method of application you may need to use a coarse spray watering can or you could strain the liquid compost using an old cotton sheet or similar rag. The leftover compost can be emptied under a tree or shrub.
2. Houseplant tonic – Using the same method used for a foliar spray, liquid compost makes an ideal tonic for houseplants. Avoid spraying on the foliage inside, as it can be messy. Dilute the concentrate at around a 10:1 ratio. Approximately 100ml to 1litre of water.
3. Compost makes an excellent potting mix for houseplants and outdoor plants in pots. The solid waste left after making the foliar spray or tonic would be ideal as a potting mix base. This should be dried for a day or so before using. The compost should be sifted through a 10mm screen before using. To aid drainage I use a simple perlite cat litter available from the supermarket. Its cheap and ideal for this type of use as it also absorbs moisture while aerating the mix.
4. The coarse screenings left after making your potting mix above can be used as a mulch on an annual flower bed or in the Veggie bed around beet crops like spinach and silverbeet.
5. Worm Farms – Yard compost can make an ideal bedding for a worm farm. It can also be used as a replacement food source if your worms will need a feed while you are away.
6. Compost should also be added to a vegetable garden before digging it up for the first seasonal planting. More can then be placed around vegetables as mulch as they begin to grow.

Have fun finding your own uses for compost around the home. If you find you still have too much, give it away to your fiends.

Anything that was once alive is often what we are told should be added to a compost heap – with the exception of meat scraps, citrus and onions.

I like to break with tradition when making compost. A typical compost heap in my backyard would include shredded leaves, lawn clippings, hay (or straw) and seedless weeds. I would also add animal manure from rabbits, chooks or sheep, depending on what was available.

I never (or make that rarely) add household scraps to a compost heap.

Worm farms are increasing in popularity. Worms will eat their own body weight in food every day so in theory 1kg of worms will consume 1 kg of waste each day, though this doesn’t always happen in practice.

Household scraps are the ideal food source for worms. The average family would produce enough household waste to feed 2000 – 10,000 worms on a daily basis.

I therefore prefer to use a 2 step composting method.

• 1. A Green / Brown compost heap using yard and garden waste.
• 2. A Worm farm fed from Household waste and scraps.

Not putting household waste in a traditional compost heap also helps prevent vermon and reduces the typical smell most compost heaps have.

Though not hard, Permaculture could be considered a complex system of sustainability. Complex in that it capitalises on the benefits of a complete system.

Besides the obvious productive benefits of permaculture, your garden is a very calming and relaxing place that can restore balance to a stressful life. The fresh air and scenery brings back a sense of belonging with nature.

Key areas of a permaculture design system include:

1. Water – The collection of water forms possibly the most important part of permaculture. Water is the basis of life. Animals need water to drink, as do plants. We all need water to wash, cook and clean things down. Rainwater tanks are a key feature in a Permaculturalists back yard. The collection of grey water for watering the garden is also a must do. On larger properties swales are used to collect, divert or slow the flow of water down banks and slopes.
2. Animals – On small properties and backyards Chickens provide a regular supply of eggs and meat. Rabbits are also common and provide a supply of meat and fur. Choosing the right breed of rabbit can see young rabbits ready to eat by 8 to 12 weeks of age. On larger properties Cattle, Goats, Sheep and pigs provide meat, milk and leather.
3. Power creation – Permaculture systems can see a varied range of power supply from backyard wind generation to generators to Solar panels. Of course, although many permaculturalists will aim to be as self sufficient as possible, the use of mains electricity is still used by most Suburban Permies.
4. Shelter – I have seen many homes built using permaculture principles. From Mud brick homes built from bricks made on the property to mud covered straw bale homes. Traditional building materials and methods are also used.
5. Fruit, Vegetables and Grain – The list would not be complete without mentioning the Organic growing of Fruit, Vegetables and Grains. The animals have to eat something, so do you. Plants provide the basis for compost as well. Many vegetables and salad greens can be grown throughout the year in many areas.

Of course permaculture is much more than just the few things listed here. Permaculture holds a strong basis as a key measure to feeding the world one backyard at time. It requires an undertaking of personal responsibility and provides a level of Autonomy that no external governing system can deliver.