Growing potatoes can save you a lot of money at the supermarket.

A relatively easy way of growing potatoes in containers not only allows you to do it in small places such as a balcony but also allows you to get up to 4 times the yield had you grown them in the ground.

I was reading the following great article today and thought i would share it with you all today…

Happy reading and happy New Year!

http://greenupgrader.com/11708/4-simple-steps-to-grow-a-hundred-pounds-of-potatoes-in-a-barrel

Spring has sprung in Australia and the ground temperature is slowly warming up. Last weekend and This past weekend I spent my free time preparing the well wintered vegetable garden block for planting. The first true Spring days seem to present themselves around the beginning of October providing the perfect conditions to prepare the garden bed for planting.

Some people prefer to begin preparing the ground for planting immediately after Winter – perhaps even during late winter. For those who use No-Dig gardening methods leaving the job a few extra weeks is a good thing.

We had some leftover cardboard boxes from recently moving into our current residence so I put these to use by placing over the old weeds and growth that had a full winter to develop. These weeds will become feed for the vegetable plants as they die under the cardboard. I placed semi-composted grass clippings over the cardboard to weigh the cardboard boxes down and provide another food source for the plants. I finish this by placing the sprinkler over this prepared bed to wet and soften the cardboard and settle everything in place before planting

A couple of old hay bales that had been waterlogged will be used later as mulch as the plants establish.

On one vegetable bed I prepared last weekend I cut holes in the cardboard to plant some Lettuce plants which had been started in the hothouse a couple of months ago. The holes need only be a couple of inches square to allow easy planting of the Seedlings. The smaller the hole the better to prevent weeds coming through.

Plastic 2 litre soft drink bottles cut in half make excellent protective surrounds while the plants are establishing. These can be removed when the plants have doubled or tripled in size or become too large for the cover. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough soft drink bottles so made some mini hothouses using bamboo stakes and clear plastic bread bags.

When using no dig garden methods I rarely feed newly planted seedlings. The semi-composted grass clippings when watered will leach nutrient into the plants and I believe this is ample feed until the plants establish. When feeding is required I use either liquid vermicast, sheep manure that has been soaked in water or a commercially available liquid Organic plant food. When watering leaf vegetables such as lettuce with liquid manures water the ground not the plant to avoid trapping liquid manure in the heart of the plant as it develops.

Next weekend I will begin preparing a bed in a similar No-Dig fashion to plant tomatoes which will be planted during the first week in November (traditionally) after frosts have finished.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Young seedlings when purchased from the local nursery or Garden centre have generally been grown under cover not being subject to extremes of environmental changes. Nurseries will put plants through what is known as a hardening off period but this is not like the environment a plant goes into when it is purchased and does not account for shock associated with transplanting.

To protect plants, covers are usually placed over each one individually until they have doubled or tripled in size. This is a good indication that the plant has established itself in its new environment and is likely to survive with the extremes outside of its protective surrounds. Plants that are not protected can suffer from stress associated with cold, wind, animals and insect pests.

What to use to protect small plants and seedlings?

Over the years I have used several different protective coverings over my vegetable seedlings. I have used anything from inverted buckets to old cans and tins. The downside of these types of coverings is the need to remove them every morning to let the light in and replace them before heavy winds or at night. These are not the most ideal options but they work when better options are temporarily not available.

The best covers for seedlings I have used are clear plastic soft drink/soda bottles that have been cut in half. Both the top and bottom of these bottles can be used. For the first few days the bottles can be placed over without any breathing holes. After a few days remove the lid from the top half of the bottle and place a couple of holes in the bottom half.

The second best option is to use plastic bread bags over 3 or 4 stakes or sticks which are placed around each plant. These bags can be lifted up from the base of the sticks a little at a time over a period of a couple of weeks until they are removed altogether.

Protective plant surrounds from the nursery, garden centre or store ?

There are commercially available plant covers on the market. These range from plastic bags like those used around trees in plantations to small plastic covers with built in venting systems. There are also mini tunnel style coverings designed for use over rows of plants. These work well but also take energy and chemicals to produce. If you do not have any recycled options available such as those listed above, buying these types of coverings may be an option for you.

Regardless of what you use for coverings it is important to monitor the temperature around the plant to prevent heat stress or major water loss.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Pea straw is the waste product left from large scale agricultural production of peas. A versatile product used as both a stock feed and garden mulch, pea straw has been popular for several years increasingly so in recent years. As a stock feed pea straw is often baled and silage wrapped when still relatively green and fresh. Peastraw garden mulch is usually baled when dry and can be purchased direct from the farm or from a local garden centre.

Applying pea straw to your vegetable garden can be as simple as spreading it around straight from the bale. However, there are a few techniques that can add value to the peastraw before distributing it around your veggies. Consider some of the following options to make the most out of your pea straw.

Soaking in water to increase water holding ability

Soaking pea-straw in water before using has a couple of beneficial uses. Increasing its water holding ability is perhaps the most important. Pea straw is baled dry and may take a while to begin retaining water under normal conditions. Soaking helps speed up this process. In addition to this, the liquid the straw is soaked in is an excellent fertiliser and conditioner to water your vegetable plants with.

Shredding with Sheep or Bovine manure

Shredding pea-straw requires a shredder or chipping machine with a flail type of shredding chamber. Small amounts should be fed into the shredder at a time to prevent it clogging up the unit. Sheep, Bovine or even horse manure can be shredded with the the pea straw. This can assist with preventing the peas straw from blocking the unit.

Composting with green grass clippings

Peastraw is a great additive in a compost heap as a carbon source. Mixed in layers with fresh green grass clippings, pea straw breaks down quickly providing a rich semi composted mulch perfect for use on a Vegetable garden. Fresh and green grass clippings will help speed up the composting process. Making a mulching compost like this would not include typical household scraps etc. which will take longer to decompose. Another option is to add a layer of pea straw on the garden bed and cover this with fresh green lawn clippings. Leave this for a week or 2 before planting out your seedlings. This time delay is important to reduce the level of heat build up from the grass as it begins to decompose.

As this years mulch breaks down around the plants it is becoming the media in which next seasons veggies will be planted while encouraging beneficial insects, worms and bacteria.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Foliar sprays are a great way of giving your vegetable plants an immediate boost while at the same time providing an ongoing supply of nutrients to the overall plant. There are several foliar sprays commercially available and heaps you can make yourself at home. Some foliar sprays are obvious and easy to make others sound a bit strange and are perhaps less common.

A short list of suitable foliar sprays is below. This list is in no way complete but is a short list of the items I have used over the years and found to work the best.

Manure

Most manures (with the exception of fresh poultry manure) can be soaked in water to make a foliar spray. These concentrated manure emulsions need to be diluted before applying with either a watering can or spraying unit.

Seaweed

Fresh seaweed collected from the beach can make an excellent foliar spray. Seaweed should be rinsed and partially composted prior to soaking in water. Seaweed should be soaked for several weeks to ensure a quality liquid concentrate which can then be diluted before application with a watering can or sprayer.

Compost

Compost made from household scraps will make an excellent foliar spray when soaked in water. Compost has already began to breakdown which means it will not need soaking for more than 24 hours before diluting and applying with a watering can. Spray units could also be used but ensure the mixture has been well strained to remove any contaminants which may block the spray nozzle of the applicator.

Plant Teas

Plant teas can range from Old weeds, Lawn clippings, Pea straw and basically anything green which has been soaked and fermented in water. Some specific plants when soaked make excellent pest control sprays as well as a source of nutrient.

Urine

Urine has long been known for its benefit to Lemons and other Citrus trees. Urine is a high source of ammonia which makes it an ideal foliar spray. Urine should be first left to stand for a week or so before using on plants. I wouldn’t use it it for leafy or hearting vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage or Brussels sprouts, though this is a personal choice and there is no specific reason not to.

Vermicast

Vermicast or worm castings can be soaked in water and used as a general foliar spray, fertiliser and plant or soil conditioner.

Commercially available Liquid Fertilisers

Brand names differ from country to country but several liquid fertilisers and foliar sprays are available. In Australia brand names such as Seasol and Charlie Carp are common and are an excellent choice for a natural plant and soil conditioner. These preparations should be mixed according to the specifications on the product packaging and applied according to the directions.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Feeding can be increased after a couple of weeks and could include a light mulching of sheep manure or aged and pulverised bovine or horse manure. After the seedlings have further developed mulching with aged grass hay, pea straw or barley/wheat straw will provide more nutrient over time as well as adding organic matter to the soil for future plantings.

There are many organic alternatives to modern synthetic fertilisers. Plants growing in the wild naturally find food from their surrounds. Plants will also adapt over time to the feed supply they have available to them.

Local Nurseries, Farmers Markets or Local Country Newspaper Advertisers will have a good supply of Natural fertiliser options for you to use on your vegetable garden. Natural unprocessed options such as animal manures, vermicast and compost will be at the top of your list but also consider prepared concentrates such as Liquid Sea Weed preparations, Fish emulsions, Pelleted chicken manure or similar options commercially available.

Depending on you locality brand names to consider include – Dynamic Lifter, Seasol and Charlie Carp. These commercially available options may also be Certified Organic or have similar options that are Certified to Organic specifications.

If you do not have access to these types of fertilisers you could consider a few alternative options.

Pea Straw Tea

Pea Straw tea can be made by soaking Pea Straw in a bucket of water for up to a couple of weeks. The water or “Tea” can then be used as a liquid feed. This tea should be used at least weekly as an alternative to regular watering. After soaking the Pea Straw can be added to the compost heap.

Lawn Clipping Tea

Similar to Pea Straw Tea, Lawn Clipping tea is another alternative solution to purchasing organic fertilisers. Soak lawn clippings the same as Pea Straw. The solution may develop an odour but this will not reduce the quality of the tea – increase its value more likely. This will typically be a stronger solution compared to Pea straw tea (the fresher the grass the stronger the tea) so it should be diluted and applied with a watering can once every couple of weeks. After soaking, the lawn clippings can be added to the compost heap.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Chicken Tractors are one of the best ways to maintain a chemical free vegetable garden. Chickens love to scratch around in the soil while doing so consuming weeds, weed seeds and other rubbish while leaving their manure on the ground ready to fertilise the next crop. Chicken Tractors are designed to pull around easily so the chickens can concentrate their cleaning efforts on a specific bed or section of a garden.

The size of your chicken tractor will ultimately depend on the size of your yard and the number of chickens you have. I have seen largest chicken tractors that required a tractor to pull around a paddock down to a small chicken tractor that could hold around 4 to 6 chickens and was ideal for an average size suburban back yard.

I have seen several chicken tractor domes made for use in association with mandala gardens used in Permaculture and by Organic & Natural Farmers and Gardeners. These domes are rotated around a mandala design usually every 2 weeks after which vegetables are planted directly in the soil the chickens have nicely prepared. No weed spraying, digging or additional ground preparation required. There are several websites available with information on these.

Domes have been traditionally made with bamboo, thin lengths of milled timber or thin straight branches. The most common and lightest material used these days is three quarter inch PVC or one inch Poly pipe which can be connected with various joiners available. Wire is then fitted over these dome frames to keep the chickens enclosed. Protective coverings such as old tarps or similar can be used to protect the chickens from the elements of heat during the day and rain or other harsh weather.

Other variations of chicken tractors can be made using timber with wire covering. Sheet wire often referred to as Weld mesh can also be used with or without a steel or timber frame. Commercially available units built like this are available and can be seen in many good organic gardening magazines or online.

Wheels on chicken tractors is a must have (except perhaps for chicken domes). Wheels can be a permanent fixture or designed to attach when the unit needs to be moved. The type of wheels you use will depend on the size of your chicken tractor. Simple wheels like those on your push lawn mower, to wheels used on wheel barrows are ideal. Commercially available chicken tractors are likely to come with pre-attached or are easy to attach yourself.

When considering using a chicken tractor to keep your vegetable garden clean, organic and naturally fertilised, look at the size of your yard and consider your options based on the circumstances you have to work with.

Article written by Eric J. Smith

Organic gardening methods should naturally flow into the formal garden and this of course includes the annual colour and flower beds. Annuals growing in exposed areas are subject to more elements. When plants are grown in an area that is not its natural environment they will either learn to cope and adapt over time or die.

Annual plants grown in exposed areas need to be naturally hardy capable of sustaining harsh wind, Summer sun and extremes in water availability.

Colourful annuals suitable for exposed areas include:

Shirley Poppy (Papaver rhoeas)

Traditionally found growing wild and treated like a weed. Popular flower colours include Lemon, Pink and Red. Marigolds and Cornflowers can be found growing with the Shirley Poppy as well as other species of Poppy. The Shirley Poppy grows well in most soils including soil rich in Organic matter. This annual reaches a height of up to 60cm and prefers full sun.

Phesants Eye (Adonis annua)

Blood red flowers adorn this summer flowering annual against the emerald foliage on narrow branching stems. Seeds can be sown in Autumn or Spring. Earlier sown varieties have a longer and thicker display of flowers compared to those sown in spring. Grows up to 18 inches (45cm) tall.

Love-In-A-Mist (Nigella damascena)

An excellent choice to under plant spring and summer flowering bushes such as roses, or Fuchsias. Some sub species have variegated flowers and several solids in various shades of blue. Growing up to 18 inches tall (45cm), Nigella grows best in full sun but will also do well under part shade.

Virginian stock (Malcomia maritima)

A quick growing, fast flowering annual providing colour a few weeks after sowing. Flowers can be white to purple and include many shades in between from cream, pink and red. A low growing plant maturing at around 20cm it is best grown close to borders where it will not be crowded out by taller growing annuals or other plants.

Summer flowering plants can be sown undercover early (Late Autumn or Early Spring) and planted out or seeds can be sown direct in the soil in mid to late Spring. The soil should be rich in organic matter and free draining. Annuals require an immediate feed source which can be reduced when flowers are about to open. Manures dug in before planting should breakdown over the short lived life of the plant.

Free seeding annuals will usually self germinate the following season. To obtain a true version of the original plant always buy traditional, non-hybrid seed varieties from genuine and reputable seed producers supporting organic, heirloom, non-hybrid seed production.

© Eric J. Smith

Some Annual Plants ideally suited to Sheltered or Shady areas.

Cineraria (Cineraria species)

Cineraria is a popular genus of which there are dozens of species. The Cineraria is a hardy plant that enjoys both full sun and shady areas. The plant grows in a tree like fashion reaching a height of up to a metre, though I have seen some plants reaching heights greater than this. Cinerarias are happy to grow in poor soils and will do exceptionally well in soil rich in organic matter including Compost aged chook manure, and manures from cattle, horse and sheep.

Shrubby Pimpernel (Anagallis monellii)

Growing to a height of just 20cm (around 8 inches) and often found in hanging baskets, Shrubby Pimpernel is ideally suited to areas receiving a high level of sunlight during the day. The leaves on the plant appear in groups of 3 along branches. The flowers are small with 5 petals. The soil should be fertile and freely draining to avoid water logging. With its deep blue to purple flowers Shrubby Pimpernel grows well alongside yellow flowering plants such as creeping zinnia.

Swan River Daisy (Brachyscome)

An Australian native plant with mixed colours ranging from white, through pink, purple and mauve. Growing to a height of around 45cm (18 inches). The Swan River Daisy enjoys most aspects of Sun and Shade with a leaning towards Sunnier locations. It enjoys most slightly fertile soils. A good plant for growing using organic techniques.

Honeywort (Cerinthe major)

A native of the Mediterranean with Purple and Yellow tubular, almost bell shaped flowers. Its not a hardy plant when it comes to frosts. It will self sow in moderate climates where it will not be damaged by frosts. Growing to a height of 50 cm ( A little over one and a half feet) it is ideally suited to sheltered areas.

Annual Plants Facts

Most annual plants are grown for their attractive flowers of varying colours. Some annuals are grown for their decorative foliage which may be followed by flowers. Some decorative foliage plants are considered finished when they finally bolt to flower.

© Eric J. Smith

Annual Plants typically suited to poor soils include many grasses and plants found naturally in dry arid areas. These plants have developed a tolerance to poor conditions over the years making them ideal for home gardens with less than average soils.

A small selection of annuals suited to poor soil environments.

Californian Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

As the name suggests the Californian Poppy is a native of America. The bluey-green foliage compliment the variations of orange and yellow flowers. The Californian Poppy likes a free draining soil that is not too fertile and dryer than most. It flowers in Summer providing a profusion of flowers that brighten a flower bed during the peaks of summer. Averaging a height of around 30cm (one foot) in height and a similar spreading habit.

Quaking Grass (Briza maxima)

An annual grass that enjoys a hot environment, Quaking Grass (also known as Greater Quaking Grass) is botanically recognised as Briza maxima. It is not a plant recognised for its colour but it does look well in contrast with lower growing border annuals. Greater Quaking Grass will grow to a height of around 60cm and likes a position in full sun or slight shade. It is often used in flower arrangements when dried or with a mixed picking of freshly cut yard flowers. No need to fertilise heavily, this plant will survive most extremes of heat and poor soils without much effort.

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Generally reaching 15cm (6 inches) in height, Sweet Alyssum can be found growing in most soil types. Typical of plants from the Brassicaceae family, Sweet Alyssum has 4 petal flowers which provide a succession of free flowing seeds which can find their way into most garden beds, cracks in concrete, pots, and any place capable of a seed germinating. Some gardeners treat this annual as weed and try to avoid its use while others grow it profusely as low edges, or gap filling in formal annual beds. Though surviving well in poor soil, Sweet Alyssum does better with an organic feed after germination and a repeat feed after flowers have had their first show.

Annuals that grow well in poor soils are a good choice to begin developing an organic annual flower bed. These plants can help build up soil to a richer more fertile media. As the plants grow they will break up the surface layer of soil and the decaying old plants will add to the soils organic matter providing benefit over time.

© Eric J. Smith